"A New York Treasure" --Village Voice

Taster's Cherce

Dig this cool article in the Times on the simple pleasures of Hash:

At his modest restaurant Stove, on an equally modest block of Astoria, Queens, Mr. Cass makes a hash that many consider the best in New York, a title that he wears lightly. It’s simple, he says: two kinds of boiled potatoes, diced and mashed. Caramelized onions, present in two forms: sliced, and ground. House-corned beef, purpose-made for the dish. The whole of it mixed together on Saturday night, ready for Sunday morning’s brunch rush. “Season it up and let it sit, that’s the only secret,” he said.

The final cooking step is turning the meat and potatoes and onions together in the pan (or on a griddle), pressing down to make the edges of everything crisp up. The ingredients must be jumbled together — made a hash of. If the ingredients are coerced into tidy separate circles, well, that’s not hash. (Chefliness can go too far).

Sounds like it is worth the trip. Or should be something you can make right quick at home.

[Photo Credit: A Girl Named Bong]

6 comments

1 Matt Blankman   ~  Jan 6, 2011 11:51 am

When we would have prime rib for Christmas dinner, my Dad would make a fantastic roast beef hash with the last few remnants of the leftovers. I love hash.

I also love the idea of settling one's hash, as if through fisticuffs. "Doesn't think Tim Raines is a hall-of-famer, eh? I'll settle his hash!"

2 rbj   ~  Jan 6, 2011 11:53 am

Oh, that kind of hash.

Never mind.

3 Yankster   ~  Jan 6, 2011 12:07 pm

[0] All the secrets have been left out. No way to make it at home any good without the secret. I'd recommend at least one oil-cured anchovy mixed in with the onion paste to really whiz-bang up the umami flavor. Not saying that's the secret, just that it will help. I add a little ground up lavender to mine (not pansy).

4 boslaw   ~  Jan 6, 2011 3:08 pm

Love corned beef, love fried potatoes & home fries, love fried & carmelized onions. Hate corned beef hash. Never could figure out why.

5 Alex Belth   ~  Jan 6, 2011 3:11 pm

3) Awesome. I must try this. My dad made it for us when we were kids. I don't think I've had it in 30 years. Serioulsy.

6 pugzilla   ~  Jan 6, 2011 6:41 pm

@ #3 - Anchovies, being a great source of glutamate, certainly will add flavor to a dish like corned beef hash. Trouble is, ya gotta find the line between added taste and "fishy," then stop short. Also works well in beef stew - 2 or 3 per pot.

Roast beef hash works for me also.

Thank goodness I'm going out to eat in 10 minutes.

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