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Nouyrican Nourishment

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rice and beans

There was a terrific little piece by Sam Sifton in the Times magazine last weekend on rice and beans, Boricua style:

A restaurant kitchen can be a kind of mother, too. This is particularly true in New York, where so many eat out so often. Indeed, for many of those born in New York — and there are more than 2.4 million of these natives in the state, according to census data run through the computers of Andrew A. Beveridge, a professor of sociology at Queens College — Puerto Rican rice and beans have little to do with blood relationships. Rice and beans are instead a shared and familiar experience, offered to all alongside dishes of roast pork or baked chicken (sweet beneath its crispy skin), dense and hearty mofongo, buttered toast, fried plantains and yuca.

Of course, rice and beans are served across Latin America, in different variations, with different beans, for different reasons. You will find superior platters of them in Brazil, in the Dominican Republic, across Mexico. The best of New York’s are literally Nuyorican, a word that arose to describe the Puerto Rican diaspora in New York, the almost 10 percent of the city that has its familial roots in the commonwealth but sees its children bloom on the concrete of the South Bronx, East Harlem, along Columbia Street in Brooklyn.

Nuyorican restaurant rice and beans are food for flame-haired detectives coming off the day shift and chalk-hued art kids jittery and lost amid the salsa beats, for tired high-school teachers, for back-office fellows off the clock. They are the taste of comic-opera hangovers, honest hunger, game-day excess, hard work. They are an authentic taste of a New York that real-estate developers and change can never diminish.

Here is the recipe. I’m all over this. Once again, I don’t know the scientific explanation but bacon makes it better.

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1 PJ   ~  Jun 30, 2009 12:30 pm

It's really tough to beat beans and rice with linguica, in case you're interested...

: )

2 RagingTartabull   ~  Jun 30, 2009 12:33 pm

El Economico on 231st and B'way...$5 for Pernil with rice and beans, I spent about a year living off of that

3 monkeypants   ~  Jun 30, 2009 12:48 pm

Eric Hinkske??

4 Will Weiss   ~  Jun 30, 2009 12:51 pm

[0] Bacon makes EVERYTHING taste better. ... Is there a recipe in there for moro?

5 Raf   ~  Jun 30, 2009 12:55 pm

[2] I love pernil. A pernil will last me well over a week. Great bargain, though it's an artery clogging bargain :)

6 ms october   ~  Jun 30, 2009 12:55 pm

[2] thanks going to give that a shot - i haven't had good store bought pernil in a while.

i have made beans with ham too alex. tastes pretty good. my friend's mom (an older puerto rican lady) taught me to make beans - hers are absolutely delicious.
not quite this recipe - , but i'll give this one a shot too.

7 Shaun P.   ~  Jun 30, 2009 12:59 pm

Fried plantains - now there's a treat!

Too bad I can't find those in a restaurant near work. Or rice and beans . . . I'll have to settle for something else.

[3] Sure! Why not? He'll do essentially what Nady was supposed to do - except Hinske can play 3B and 1B in a pinch, too. And he cost almost nothing.

8 RagingTartabull   ~  Jun 30, 2009 1:21 pm

[6] The place is a total hole-in-the-wall, really just a lunch counter, but it's delicious. If I remember right it's the "small" that was $5, but believe me the small is much more pork, rice, and beans than you can possibly need...the large is just obscene.

9 Start Spreading the News   ~  Jun 30, 2009 1:24 pm

[7] Whenever I go to the Stadium, I always stop at the Molino Rojo for some fried plantains takeout. Better than the $10 Stadium cheesesteaks and much cheaper. The rice and beans is very good there too.

10 knuckles   ~  Jun 30, 2009 1:44 pm

[3] Having a hard time understanding where he fits on the roster right now, except as added depth, expecting Nady to miss more time…Swisher’s platoon splits are pretty even YTD, Damon bats lefty, and they seem to have a decent thing going with the Gardner/Melky combo.

I guess the added fact that he can play IF may help Teix get a little extra time at DH or days off?

No complaints, as he's a moderately useful part, but just curious.

11 monkeypants   ~  Jun 30, 2009 2:02 pm

[3][10] Hinske (not beans and rice) appears to be the topic of conversation in the combox on the last thread!

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