"A New York Treasure" --Village Voice
Category: Chefs

Taster’s Cherce

Because he’s not a guy who craves praise, I haven’t written about how much my pal Brad Lappin has done for the Banter. Let’s just say–in Damon Runyon terms–it’s more than somewhat. But now I’ve got a reason to share some news about Brad with you and there ain’t nuthin’ he can do about it.

This piece in the Denver Post says it all.

Well, almost all. You’ll want to watch this video, too. (And dig the recipe here.)

Needless to say if you find yourself in the Bolder-Denver area, check out the Bohemian Biergarten if you want to have a kick-ass soft pretzel.

I won’t lye.

(Follow Brad on Twitter.)

[Photo Credit:  Cyrus McCrimmon/The Denver Post]

Taster’s Cherce

Yeah, this looks worth trying.

Taster’s Cherce

Bouchon Bakery’s Crepe Cake. Seriously.

Yes, Please.

[Photo Credit: Deborah Jones]

New York Minute

 

Dorie Greenspan’s got a couple of stores. They look worth checking out, man.  Seriously.

Taster’s Cherce

Barbara Kafka’s simplest roast chicken.

Taster’s Cherce

Working my way through April Bloomfield’s cookbook, last night I made her carrot, avocado and orange salad. Another sure shot though next time I think I’d add a half a teaspoon of champagne vinegar at the end to give the citrus a little extra bite.

[Featured Image via Smith & Ratliff]

Taster’s Cherce

It wasn’t freezing yesterday but it was grey and rainy and I wanted to make soup so I tried this one, a green pea and ham soup, from April Bloomfield’s book, and man was it ever good. I mean, really good.

Taster’s Cherce

Nicole Franzen goes apple picking and then makes a pie. Indeed.

Taster’s Cherce

I made this over the weekend and loved it.

This version of the recipe is slightly different from the one in her cookbook but it’ll do the trick (in her book she calls for two tablespoons of maldon salt and I think one, as it is listed here, is fine). I added some hot pepper flakes at the end, too. Dag, it was tasty.

[Photo Credit: James Ransom]

Taster’s Cherce

Ginger fried rice by Jeans-Georges via Food 52. Indeed.

Taster’s Cherce

David Lebovitz gives us a plum tart.

Taster’s Cherce

Saturday morning I’m in a dentist office on the east side flipping through the pages of New York Magazine when I see a blurb on Maison Kayser a newly-opened bakery on the Upper East Side. It is the 80th location of the bakery worldwide but the first in the States. So when I finished the appointment I paid a visit, bought a baguette, a sugar brioche, and a pain au chocolat. They were all wonderful so I went back yesterday with my sister and The Wife for brunch.

My sister, whose been to Paris many times, walked in and said, “It smells right.”

We were in heaven. Maison Keyser is a bakery and a sit down restaurant. They are still getting their bearings in terms of service but nothing was egregiously bad and here’s the beauty part…I recognized a blond haired woman from the day before. She’d been working behind the cash register in the bakery, was friendly and had an open face.  Her name is Marine. I introduced her to my sister and The Wife and she asked us if we’d tried the white chocolate brioche (I think it’s called a Vin Blanc, but I could be wrong). We had not and she brought us one and explained that it is from Lyon, where she is from, a combination of a baguette and brioche.

We flipped over it and for $4.95 it might be one of the best greatest values bite-for-bite in the city. We wouldn’t have tried it if Marine didn’t offer us a sample. Eric Kayser’s breads and pastries are reason enough to trek over to the east side but he’s  fortunate to have someone like Marine working for him. She took great pride in their food and was eager to share it.  It’s that kind of care, warmth, and attentiveness that will keep us coming back.

 

Taster’s Cherce

I’ve made April Bloomfield’s Skirt Steak Salad twice recently and man, it’s a sure shot. I couldn’t find watercress so I used cilantro and mint instead. Here’s the recipe. And dig this demonstration.

Taster’s Cherce

We interrupt Peach Week to rave about Andrew Whitney’s cooking over at Dell’Anima.

The bruschette is lovely, especially the roasted red peppers with smoked almonds but the Bone Marrow with testa, charred cippolini, pickled red onion, mustard vinaigrette is off the chain. Alone, it is worth the trip.

Yes, the pastas are satisfying, too. The vibe is cozier than L’Artusi, the menu more daring, but both places are spots I want to visit again and again (this coming from someone who doesn’t eat Italian out often). I like sitting at the bar and watching the cooks in action.

And for dessert, treat yourself to the espresso-rum almond cake.

You won’t be sorry.

Taster’s Cherce

Now, here’s a meal. From the most beautiful site: Manger.

Taster’s Cherce

Over at Food and Wine, Anthony Bourdain and Eric Ripert break it down…like this:

Fancy Chefs Making Burgers

AB: I understand this trend. It’s dismaying, but I completely understand the impulse. What chef wants to die broke? And let’s face it: Burgers are good. But it is definitely a little dismaying, any time you see really great chefs cooking below their abilities by putting out a burger.

ER: A burger is part of the menu at our Westend Bistro in Washington, DC. Our burger was actually inspired by McDonald’s—except for the quality of the meat, of course. A McDonald’s bun is perfect. You put it in your hands; it’s not too big, it’s not too tall. The ratios, the slice of tomato—for some reason, it’s all perfect. The pickles are perfect. The shredded salad, it’s not too much, not too little. When we did our burger, for us, it was a very interesting research project. We looked at companies like McDonald’s and Burger King and thought, What is great in their approach? And how can we make it great with the meat that we have, which is, obviously, of different quality?

[Photo Via:  Gourmet]

Taster’s Cherce

Our man Ted Berg brings it in the latest edition of “The Sandwich Show”:

Taster’s Cherce

I’ve talked about Bucatini All’Amatriciana many times before. It’s my go-to meal, a signature dish in Rome (or just outside of Rome). It’s simple: bacon (or, in Rome, Guanciale), onions, hot pepper flakes, olive oil and tomatoes. Served with bucatini, the long pasta with a hole in the middle.

There are many variations on this theme and just as many arguments about the proper way to make the dish. Marcella Hazen doesn’t use olive oil, she uses butter and vegetable oil. Some people add garlic. Lydia Bastianich cooks the onions in pasta water first and once they are softened she adds the oil. Everyone is convinced their way is the correct way.

Anyhow, here are two more versions to fool around with.

One, from a Portland Chef named Rachel Grossman (via Saveur). It is certainly more involved than the traditional method, has far more ingredients. Curious to give it a try to see why she goes in that direction.

And here’s another–which I’ve tried and recommend–from New York chef (co-owner of Dell’Anima and L’Artusi) Gabe Thompson.

[Photo Credit: Todd Coleman]

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